CRV / LS VTEC Conversion Part 1: Mounting The VTEC Head
-IntegraleEVO
In this series, we will show you how to build a motor with the best of both worlds: the low-mid range torque from the CRV / LS motors as well as the infamous Honda top end power - VTEC.
| Specifications: |
| Year |
Engine Model |
Horespower |
Torque |
Compression Ratio |
| 97 – 98 |
B20B |
126hp@5400rpm |
133ft-lbs@4300rpm |
8.8:1 |
| 99 - 00 |
B20Z |
140@6200rpm |
133ft-lbs@4500rpm |
9.6:1 |
|
Other info:
The bore on ALL B Series motors is 81mm EXCEPT the B20 which is 84mm. That is where the extra 0.2L is from.
The B20 shares the same rod and crank with the B18. Basically the B20 is a 84mm bore LS motor.
|
Part List:
HardWare Kit:
- 18" -4AN steel braided hose
- 2 x -4AN fittings
- 1/8"NPT to 1/8" BSP Tee fitting
- 1/8"NPT to -4AN adapter fitting
- -4AN to 3/8NPT fitting
- 1/8"NPT plug
Head Gasket:
- OEM Honda CRV headgasket for CRV VTEC
- OEM Honda LS headgasket for LSVTEC
Cylinder Head:
Complete DOHC VTEC cylinder head
Intake Manifold:
Correct intake manifold and gasket that matches the cylinder head.
Timing Belt:
Depends on what water pump you going to use. If you use GSR water pump, then use GSR timing belt.
If you use B20 water pump, then use B20 timing belt. You know how it goes.
Head Bolts:
GSR / ITR head bolts
Note: Do Not use B16a head bolts, they are shorter then the GSR/ITR ones.
Distributor:
You can use the LS one, but you will have to cut one leg off the distributor and modify it to make it fit.
The best is to use a DOHC VTEC distributor, matching with the correct OBD version of your wiring harness and ECU.
Wiring:
You will have to wire your car up to run VTEC if you have not done it yet.
ECU:
The best OEM ECU would be a ITR ecu, if you can find a JDM ITR ecu would be even better since it is OBD1.
Else you can use chipped P28.
Knock Sensor:
Knock sensor will need to put in if you are not using a Chipped P28. Just wire it up.
Fuel:
Suggest to at least have a Fuel Pressure Regulator for this application.
Note: Fuel Pump and bigger injectors are strongly recommended.
How To:
In this CRV/VTEC build up, a stock ITR head was chosen for maximum performance.  |
This is the oil supply hole for activating the VTEC for stock motors. Since we cant use this anymore, we need to plug it with a 1/8"NPT plug. Make sure you put some loctite or liquid sealant to make sure that there wont be any oil leak. If you damaged the surface accidently, you need to bring the head to a machine shop and have it resurfaced.  |
Since the dowel pins on the non-vtec motors are in different location, we need to enlarge the dowel pins holes to 14mm.  |
Now, after we plugged that oil supply hole for activating the VTEC for stock motors. We need to run an external oil line directly to the head for feeding the VTEC solenoid. Remove that 3/8 nut (which is located at the back of the distributor) and put on the -4AN to 3/8NPT fitting. Don’t forget to use tafelon tape or liquid sealant to prevent any oil leaks.  |
Then put the dowel pins in place. And in this buildup, we used ARP head bolts as well. Put the gasket on (make sure the UP sign is facing up!) and waiting for the head to bolt up!  |
Whew! The head is now in place and get your Helms manual and torque the Head blots to spec, also put the cams in. 
 |
Put the1/8"NPT to 1/8" BSP Tee fitting where the stock oil pressure sender unit is.  |
Knock Sensor:
You only need to do this when you use a ECU that will look for a knock sensor. Buy one from the wreckers or from your stock motor. There is a hole already threaded for the Knock Sensor on the back of the B20B block, all you need to do is screw it in. That is it.  |
Put the steel braided hose on and again, make sure you use teflon tape or liquid sealent on all the connectors.  |
Finally put the valve cover on and all other parts.  |
After all the work, what about the PCV system? Part 2: PCV Valve Arrangement > >
